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BMarius

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cluj - Napoca
  • Interests
    BMW, PC, Muzica

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    bmdan_ro

Previous Fields

  • Masina
    E46 320CI 2.2l / 170cp, M-Paket II exterior/interior

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  1. "set oglinzi m 1385 lei+tva oe" Cu tot cu sticla sau numai corpurile?
  2. Ciao! M-ar interesa niste preturi pentru: 1. Oglinda exterioara stanga completa (electrica/incalzita, capac cu striuri) + cablu pentru 2001 E46 Coupe 2. Set oglinzi M pentru E46 320Ci Mersi.
  3. Ciao! M-ar interesa niste preturi: 1. Oglinda exterioara stanga completa (electrica/incalzita, capac cu striuri) + cablu pentru 2001 E46 Coupe 2. Set oglinzi M pentru E46 320Ci Mersi.
  4. http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine_bible_pg2.html Extras: Octane and power It's a common misconception amongst car enthusiasts that higher octane = more power. This is simply not true. The myth arose because of sportier vehicles requiring higher octane fuels. Without understanding why, a certain section of the car subculture decided that this was because higher octane petrol meant higher power. The reality of the situation is a little different. Power is limited by the maximum amount of fuel-air mixture that can be jammed into the combustion chamber. Because high performance engines operate with high compression ratios they are more likely to suffer from detonation and so to compensate, they need a higher octane fuel to control the burn. So yes, sports cars do need high octane fuel, but it's not because the octane rating is somehow giving more power. It's because it's required because the engine develops more power because of its design. There is a direct correlation between the compression ratio of an engine and its fuel octane requirements. The following table is a rough guide to octane values per engine compression ratio for a carburettor engine without engine management. For modern fuel-injected cars with advanced engine management systems, these values are lowered by about 5 to 7 points. Compression ratio -> Octane 5:1 -> 72 6:1 -> 81 7:1 -> 87 8:1 -> 92 9:1 -> 96 10:1 -> 100 11:1 -> 104 12:1 -> 108 Octane and gas mileage Here's a good question : can octane affect gas mileage. The short answer is absolutely, yes it can, but not for the reasons you might think. The octane value of a fuel itself has nothing to do with how much potential energy the fuel has, or how cleanly or efficiently it burns. All it does is control the burn. However, if you're running with a petrol that isn't the octane rating recommended for your car, you could lose gas mileage. Why? Lets say your manufacturers handbook recommends that you run 87 octane fuel in your car but you fill it with 85 instead, trying to save some money on filling up. Your car will still work just fine because the engine management system will be detecting knock and retarding the ignition timing to compensate. And that's the key. By changing the ignition timing, you could be losing efficiency in the engine, which could translate into worse gas mileage. Again as a practical example, my little tale above about our trip to Vegas on low octane gas. (Whether you want to believe some bloke on the internet or not is up to you). On the low octane gas on the trip down, we could barely get 23.5mpg out of the Subaru. Once I was able to fill it up again with premium at the recommended octane rating, we got 27.9mpg on the way back. A difference of 4.4mpg over 450 miles of driving. Doing the maths, you can figure out that by skimping on the price during fill-up, you may save a little money right there and then, but it costs in the long term because you're going to be filling up more often to do the same mileage. My advice? Do what the handbook tells you. After all it's in the manufacturers better interests that you get the most performance out of your car as you can - they don't want you badmouthing them, and in this day and age of instant internet gratification, you can bad-mouth a large company very quickly and get a lot of publicity. Fara rea intentie va zic sa cititi cam tot ce e pe carbibles.com, nu veti afla decat lucruri interesante si, zic eu, reprezinta bagajul minim de cunostinte care ar trebui sa-l aiba orice persoana care se vrea "pasionat" de masini. Spor!
  5. N-ai de ce! Spor! Posteaza impresii / concluzii dupa experiment...
  6. E46 320Ci 2.2L / 170cp 1. introduci cheia in contact si pui contactul - o invarti pana pe penultima pozitie, cea dinainte de a trezi la viata electromotorul <_< 2. o tii asa 10 secunde 3. aduci cheia in "pozitia 0 " 4. astepti 10 secunde 5. pornesti motorul http://bimmerinfo.com/throttlereset.htm LE: la pasul 3, unii zic ca trebuie sa scoti cheia din contact. Incearca si vezi care da rezultate la tine.
  7. Hai sa-mi bag si eu nasul... <_< Pana mai demult as fi zis ca e un mit faza cu adaptatul masinii la stilul de condus... ca doar n-o fi ceva AI computerul ala de bord. Dar, dupa experienta din ultima vreme zic ca e un sambure de adevar in toata treaba asta. Explicatie: Cam de la sfarsitul lui Decembrie si pana mai saptamana trecuta am condus mai cuminte ca de obicei - nu ca as fi facut curse pana atunci, dar totusi... Cum a dat vremea buna, adica de o saptamana, am zis ca pot si eu sa-mi iau nasul la purtare si sa-i mai dau si eu un pic de span, ca de'... mi-i dor si mie. Teapa! Pana ieri am crezut ca s-a dus ceva la motor - sunt mai paranoic de felul meu cand e vorba de masina - ca nu ma mai baga in scaun la acceleratie. Cu cat bagam piciorul mai tare in acceleratie, cu atat imi taia mai tare elanul, adica: 1. calc pedala 2. pare ca incepe sa-si ia avant sa te bage in scaun 3. imi scad RPM la o valoare decenta pentru viteza curenta de deplasare - cateodata facea asta cu un "sut" daca calcam bine pedala 4. cresc RPM ca la o masina de pensionari Si, ieri imi vine si mie - desi nu e prea intelept, mai ales pe vremea asta - sa dezactivez ASC-ul, "prima treapta" numai - inspiratie de la vl4d care se plimba 90% cu el dezactivat. WOW! Parca s-au trezit toti caii din ea la viata! E cu totul alta masina, fluida, agresiva, mai mare dragul s-o iei la o tura. De fapt mai multe in oras + una inafara, sa ma conving. Si ghiciti ce-am facut pe urma... I-am resetat acceleratia. :)
  8. O sa incerc sa nu fac teoria chibritului... E mai mult vorba de perceptie. Nu sunt genul de persoana care, cand da la automat, din pozitia a 2-a invarte cheia intr-o milisecunda pana se blocheaza. Cursa respectiva o fac cam in 1 - 1.5 secunde - asa m-am obisnuit. Deci, cand zic la sfert de cheie inseamna ca nu apuc sa ajung cu ea mai sus de jumatatea cursei respective - normal, sfert e un pic exagerat, dar asa e expresia. :) In schimb, cat de usor porneste motorul, se poate deduce si dupa cate "rotatii face" pana porneste - banuiesc ca multi isi dau seama dupa cadenta caracteristica. Dar nici macar asa nu e relevant, pentru ca mai conteaza si cat de bine duce bateria, deci de rpm - una e sa pornesti masina cand electromotorul merge cu 3 rotatii/sec si altceva cu 1 rotatie/secunda. Revenind on-topic, in 99% din situatii mi-a pornit dupa 3 cadente - numai cand au fost -15 grade a fost nevoie de 5, in conditiile in care nu am observat diferente in turatia electromotorului intre luna noiembrie si zilele trecute - asta e, sunt destul de paranoic incat sa fiu atent si la detalii "relativ" inutile. LE: rpm de la electromotor le-am dat ca si exemple, nu e situatia reala
  9. 2001 320ci 2.2l - benzina OMV 95 Cum nu o am decat de la sfarsitul lui octombrie, nu pot decat sa compar noiembrie cu acuma. Iar eu nu am vazut nici o diferenta. E posibil ca vara sa porneasca mai usor, desi nu stiu cum as putea defini asta, incat nu am tinut niciodata electromotorul cuplat mai mult de 2 sec - atunci cand am pornit-o la -15. La fel si dimineata asta, la -8 a pornit la sfert de cheie.
  10. Porneste la sfert de cheie. Nici o diferenta intre noiembrie si -10 pana la -15 de noptile/diminetile trecute.
  11. De ce? Pai daca altfel nu porneste? Il faci praf...
  12. Foarte frumoasa... Drum bun si fara incidente!
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