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MuciX

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Multumesc pentru oferta. Deja am vorbit cu tine pentru o curatare, inca de pe atunci te-ai aratat disponibil doar pentru ca e urs. :)

Nu am facut pasul inca pentru ca ma tem sa nu se umple de praf pana il montez, sau ca nu s-ar usca asa cum trebuie din cauza vremii.

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Poate ca si din cauza pretuilor unii renunta la astfel de proiecte. Spor.

Mersi. Depinde de baza si de nivelul pretentiilor. Se pot strange multe. Dupa cum se vede, eu m-am numarat printre ghinionisti. Totusi, asa cum spunea un coleg pe alt forum, sunt tanar, acum sunt de facut vitejiile astea. Mai incolo apar altele.

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Si eu am intrebat si mi-au spus, judecand dupa o scurta inspectie vixuala, ca pot fi reglati inca si daca respect indicatia producatorului si ii reglez la fiecare 20k or sa mai duca mult si bine. Pastram aceeasi rezerva ca daca unul e dus se schimba. Totusi, daca e dus unul, se poate schimba doar ala?

 

P.S. Daca iese totul bine, abia astept primul drum pe Stelvio. :)

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Eu nu am abuzat-o, dar eu am facut doar vreo 10k km cu ea, deci nimic in comparatie cu totalul ei. Chiar nu stiu ce viata a avut.

Partea buna e ca nici nu v-a mai fi abuzata. Nu fac drift, burn, cerculete, liniute si ce se mai poarta printre ursari.

Edited by MuciX
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700 lei rectificarea chiulasei

1500 lei manopera piese

~6000 lei piesele.

Azi am fost la service, am uitat sa fac poze, au zis ca or sa-mi mai trimita ei.

Caroseria e plina de decapant si mai sta la "dospit". In timpul asta vor sa se apuce de motor, sa mai avem timpi morti.

Am discutat de finante si am facut cateva adaugiri listei de piese:

- capitonaj capota

- izolatie "perete de foc" compartiment motor

- izolatie tunel cutie de viteze

 

Pret 7128 lei (include cei 700 pentru chiulasa).

Pe langa asta, ziceam ca mai dam inca 1500 lei manopera.

Legat de chiulasa, nu am intrebat exact cine o va face, mi-au spus ca duc toate chiulasele acolo si au facut inclusiv V10-uri care au iesit foarte bine. Acum sa vedem cum ies L6. Eu inca sper sa nu fie fisurata acea chiulasa.

Inca nu am incheiat socotelile in ceea ce priveste caroseria, pentru ca au mai aparut "chestii", deci sa vedem ce va mai fi si acolo.

 

O estimare grosiera pentru finalizarea lucrarii ar fi luna martie. Eu inca nu imi pot imagina ca va mai fi vreodata intreaga. :|

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Din ce am dedus eu ajutat de gugal translate e schimbat motorul cu totul, probabil din cauza chiulasei.

Caz clasic de care personal fac misto fara ezitare. Puteti sa incepeti oricand.

Am facturile alea de cand am masina, le-am frunzarit si am vazut "zylinderkopf", am presupus ca e schimbata chiulasa.

E schimbat cu totul, deci adio "matching number car".

Banuiala mea este ca a fost dusa chiulasa, pentru ca primele linii vorbesc de inlaturarea ei de pe motorul vechi si evaluarea pagubelor.

Conform "cartii" tipul asta de motor a suferit grav din cauza chiulaselor care crapau "din senin". Banuiala mea e ca a ajuns antigel in ulei, a facut spuma si de acolo tot motorul praf. Fiind problema cunoscuta, s-au oferit si cei de la BMW sa ofere acea reducere de 50% din motor si manopera.

post-64546-0-93765800-1451460663_thumb.png

 

Altceva: Lamuriti-ma si pe mine ce reprezinta al doilea numar poansonat sub parbriz, cel de langa VIN. E format din doar 8 cifre.

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De aia ti-am zis sa vezi ce nr are chiulasa

 

Cracked Head

The one weak point of the M20 engine is the head; specifically the 885 head fitted to the 325i. This usually happens in situations of overheating, and it is therefore critical to keep the cooling system in optimum condition. Any sign of 'mayonnaise' (a creamy residue) in either the coolant tank, the oil filler cap or under the rocker cover, will indicate a cracked head. Unfortunately, this means the head is scrap and will need replacing.

 

Head

Cross sectional view of the different M20 heads.

 

Cross sectional view of the different M20 heads.

Moulds of M20 inlet ports.

 

Moulds of M20 inlet ports.

Three different head castings were used over the engine's production run. The earliest was #1264200 aka the 200. These were used in all E21 320/6 and 323i and E12 520/6 engines, and later in the E28 and E30 eta engines (eta = "Power With Economy").

The next version was #1277731 aka the 731. This head was the same as the 200 but featured larger intake ports. It was used in the 320i and 323i engines.

The final version was #1705885 or 885 introduced in the 325i. Ports were further enlarged, valves were larger and the combustion chamber was redesigned to improve flow and thermodynamic efficiency.

Despite the three designs, the only differences are valve head sizes, port shapes and combustion chambers. This means that certain parts such as bearings, oil seals and even camshafts are interchangeable between heads.

The heads themselves are not interchangeable; fitting a 731 head to a 325i will result in the valves hitting the pistons, while fitting an 885 head to a 320i will result in the valves hitting the bore lip. 885 heads are therefore completely incompatible with B20 or B23 blocks, and the 200 head can only be used with the 325e pistons.

However, a 731 head from the 320i or 323i can be used on a 325i (and is essential if building a 2.7), by modifying the engine. The recommended method is by profiling the squish band of the head where the pistons protrude. It is important to remember that the 885 head is designed for profiled m20b25 pistons and the 731 head is designed for pistons that are flat at the squish band and do not protrude from the block, if pistons of a different type are used then combustion chamber shape may be compromised resulting in less power, emission issues and detonation.

When skimming the head, look for dimples in two corners of the head face. These are your depth gauges, and the head can be skimmed until these dimples disappear. Any further skimming compromises the clearance between the piston and head within the squish band; overskimming will likely result in contact, and engine failure.

 

e destul de lunga discutia,stiu destul de sigur ca 885-urile pica extrem de des la M20-urile supralimentate.

Altfel daca ai supraincalzit motorul ai sanse mari sa paradesti chiulasa.La 2.3 de ex am supraincalzit motorul am terminat cuzinetii dar chiulasa era in stare buna,da acolo era alt tip de chiulasa mai "buna" .

Edited by alex230ro
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

Necropost.

 

E aproape gata si asta al meu. Au mai aparut cate unele de remediat pe parcurs, dar momentan nimic care sa afecteze buna functionare in siguranta.

 

M-a lasat aeroterma, dupa ce deja aveam compresorul de A\C nefunctional. Compresor nu prea gasesc nou, iar aeroterma trebuie demontata sa vad care e codul pe care trebuie sa il comand. Nu am reusit sa fac nici pilotul sa mearga.

 

Vreau sa ii fac inca un reglaj al supapelor, mi se par cam galagioase.

 

Trapa nu prea o pot deschide din cauza ca este capitonajul prea gros si freaca ca dracu. Se pare ca materialul din fabrica era mult mai subtire, chiar daca la ochi arata la fel. Tot din cauza capitonajului nu reusesc sa fixez bine panoul de check control.

 

Cateva poze dupa ce l-am spalat. Link

 

Si interior.

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