alex230ro

mergi cu ea la un tester pot fi mai multe probleme.

probabil intrebarea e daca tu esti proprietar in talon + carte masina.

http://www.bmwclub.ro/forums/topic/166752-vand-bmw-325-coupe-e46-2003-facelift/

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=5E51-EUR-09-2015-F10N-BMW-520d&mg=11&sg=25&diagId=11_5741&q=11318570649 par la fel,toate.

ai idee ce versiune de soft ai? edit: adica http://www.argyrides.eu/bmw/mods/stall/stall.htm

erai cu E46?eu am prins 50-60 cat permitea traficul. altfel xdrive e clar superior dar te descurci si cu rwd fara mari probleme.

@horeapopa in afara de perne care daca pica le schimbi obligat restul sunt upgradeuri nu poti sa zici ca le iei in fiecare zi.practic eu inteleg asa -Ace vinde o masina ok care are intretinere facuta la zis si ca care s-au mai schimbat niste piese destul de scumpe - aici cumparatorul scapa de o cheltuiala -apoi in banii aia da si niste jante misto care cumparatorul le ia sau nu - daca nu ai plac le vinde si ia si niste bani pe ele - again win pentru cumparator

Ambele motoare au probleme mai mari sau mai mici,daca se verifica cum trebuie masina iar apoi se are grija de ea cum zice si un coleg mai sus benzina buna si plimbata extraurban atunci nu cred sa fie probleme. Strict ca alegere personala as merge pe N52 de cautat unul cu revizia la chiulasa.Legat de ce se zice mai sus N54 e si el o alternativa desi nu stiu care mai e statusul cu pompa de benzina o comparatie intre cele 2 motoare http://paultan.org/2010/05/11/bmws-n52-versus-n53-what-are-we-missing/ edit: si un test cu un 130i http://www.autobild.de/artikel/dauertest-bmw-130i-887616.html?bild=20&now=95#mmg in test e N52 cu revizia de chiulasa banuiesc.

in topicul asta e vorba de motorul M54- motor pe benzina cam greu o sa gasesti o parere.

In mod normal daca sunt cu revizia de chiulasa >2008 adica sunt ok,de prefera 2.5 sa cauti altfel daca iei 3.0 mai bine direct 330i. mai mult nu stiu sa zic teoretic motorul e o evolutie fata de M54 ...

rulmenti alternator pe moarte asta as zice,eu vreau sa il dau jos pe al meu sa il fac cat mai curând @ALCS da drumul la incalzire scaune dezaburire si faruri si vezi daca se schimba sunetul,atunci ar trebui sa faca zgomot mai tare.

nu aud nimic anormal,alternatorul e cam zgomotos atat dar la fel se aude si la mine pe frig.

incearca sa dai curent in prima faza e cel mai simplu apoi verifici electromotorul. edit fa si asta apoi mai avem http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1011677

vrea o diagnoza,de dat cu parerea nu cred ca ajuta,dar probabil un senzor abs pe moarte/murdar.

nu ai setare separata pentru pasagerii din spate? google zice asa I have 2 zone auto air condition on my f10, and since i have never seated at the back, i have never realized that ( wait for it) there is no hot air coming from the rear vents at all!!! After recognised, i went to my dealer and they told me \"if you dont buy 4 zone air con, there is no connection at the rear vents with the con. It just blows fresh air neither at 28Ă° nor 18Ă° !!!\" I dont understand how come a bmw f10 does not have air con system connected to the rear vents

De aia ti-am zis sa vezi ce nr are chiulasa Cracked Head The one weak point of the M20 engine is the head; specifically the 885 head fitted to the 325i. This usually happens in situations of overheating, and it is therefore critical to keep the cooling system in optimum condition. Any sign of 'mayonnaise' (a creamy residue) in either the coolant tank, the oil filler cap or under the rocker cover, will indicate a cracked head. Unfortunately, this means the head is scrap and will need replacing. Head Cross sectional view of the different M20 heads. Cross sectional view of the different M20 heads. Moulds of M20 inlet ports. Moulds of M20 inlet ports. Three different head castings were used over the engine's production run. The earliest was #1264200 aka the 200. These were used in all E21 320/6 and 323i and E12 520/6 engines, and later in the E28 and E30 eta engines (eta = "Power With Economy"). The next version was #1277731 aka the 731. This head was the same as the 200 but featured larger intake ports. It was used in the 320i and 323i engines. The final version was #1705885 or 885 introduced in the 325i. Ports were further enlarged, valves were larger and the combustion chamber was redesigned to improve flow and thermodynamic efficiency. Despite the three designs, the only differences are valve head sizes, port shapes and combustion chambers. This means that certain parts such as bearings, oil seals and even camshafts are interchangeable between heads. The heads themselves are not interchangeable; fitting a 731 head to a 325i will result in the valves hitting the pistons, while fitting an 885 head to a 320i will result in the valves hitting the bore lip. 885 heads are therefore completely incompatible with B20 or B23 blocks, and the 200 head can only be used with the 325e pistons. However, a 731 head from the 320i or 323i can be used on a 325i (and is essential if building a 2.7), by modifying the engine. The recommended method is by profiling the squish band of the head where the pistons protrude. It is important to remember that the 885 head is designed for profiled m20b25 pistons and the 731 head is designed for pistons that are flat at the squish band and do not protrude from the block, if pistons of a different type are used then combustion chamber shape may be compromised resulting in less power, emission issues and detonation. When skimming the head, look for dimples in two corners of the head face. These are your depth gauges, and the head can be skimmed until these dimples disappear. Any further skimming compromises the clearance between the piston and head within the squish band; overskimming will likely result in contact, and engine failure. e destul de lunga discutia,stiu destul de sigur ca 885-urile pica extrem de des la M20-urile supralimentate. Altfel daca ai supraincalzit motorul ai sanse mari sa paradesti chiulasa.La 2.3 de ex am supraincalzit motorul am terminat cuzinetii dar chiulasa era in stare buna,da acolo era alt tip de chiulasa mai "buna" .

pai va 167.00 motorul a fost refacut,acum cat km are?

mi se pare ca nu are secondary air pump pe motorul lui altfel complet de acord cu ceeea ce spui.

din ce tin eu minte 2.5 M20 mai rupea tachetii,ideal e sa ai schimbi pe toti ma rog exemplarele care le stiu eu si au patit astea avea un tratament mai abuziv din partea proprietarilor. altfel http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?661620-What-fails-on-the-stock-M20-s-rocker-arm

oho si inca mai e nu vad pe lista ta tachetii?

Te-a luat valul mai rau ca pe mine.oricum nu strica sa schimbi toate piesele alea,eu am refolosit unele dar rezultatul e ca tot trebuie sa mai schimb din ele.asa dai un ban in plus dar stai relaxat.

daca gandesti la rece nu mai iei masina, dai banii pe taxi si stai relaxat.Probabil ca masina ai place si vrea sa o faca mai "speciala" .Altfel logica ta e corecta cu banii bagati in masina la final probabil ca ar lua un 335,dar cat timp el e multumit eu zic ca restul nu mai conteaza.

la distributie poti cel mult sa schimbi intinzatorul,dar nu cred ca o sa fie vreo diferenta.

distributia?!garnitura e normal,in general pica pe la 150.000 km.

oricare cred ca e ok,oricum banuiesc ca 2 ani garantie au si una si alta. edit : si da Exide vine de fabrica, bateriile pot te tina 3 ani pot sa te tina 12 ani ,depinde si daca faci drumuri scurte daca ai consumatori