alex230ro

legat de ulei avem asa There's been a lot of discussion in the past about how often we should change our oil. We've also talked about how BMW has an official 15,000 mile interval, or one year, whichever comes first policy. I stumbled on this BMW document today which sheds some interesting light on the subject. Note a couple things. First is how they say they have recommended an annual interval "in the USA". Hmmm, what is it elsewhere? More interesting though is how the ECU calculates recommended oil change intervals. It isn't done based on time. It isn't done based on mileage! It's done based on your MPG which is an indicator of how hard you push your car. The easier on your car you are the greater your MPG, the harder you push it the lower your MPG. The most interesting thing of all is that BMW therefore, by virtue of your MPG, can determine how you drive your car. This data must be stored in the ECU memory somewhere. Below is quoted a BMW technical service bulletin. Bold print was added by me for emphasis. July 2008 Technical Service This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B12 25 05 dated December 2005. [New] designates changes to this revision SUBJECT Engine Oil Service with CBS4 MODEL [NEW] E70, E71, E82, E88, E90, E91, E92, and E93 with the N51, N52, N52K, N54, N62TU, and N63 engines [NEW] INFORMATION With the introduction of the E90 also came the next generation of Condition Based Service CBS4. The primary change from previous CBS strategies is that the oil service forecast distance remaining is calculated and displayed separately from the time-based or absolute service-due date. The mileage interval forecast calculation by the DME is primarily based upon an actual fuel consumption variable, which reflects the current driving profile. It is the total fuel consumption, and not the accumulated mileage, which influences when the next oil service will be forecast as due. The displayed mileage until due is only a forecast, and begins to decrease at a quicker rate once the remaining percentage drops below 50%. If the actual fuel consumption profile increases or decreases from baseline averages, the mileage interval forecast will effectively increase or decrease as well. The learned driver profile (average fuel consumption) is also used to calculate the next forecast mileage after a CBS reset. For this reason, a starting point of up to 30,000 km (19,000 miles) may be expected for a vehicle achieving lower than average fuel consumption. The oil service will also be forecast as due 24 months after the last CBS reset, and will prompt for the service if the forecast based upon fuel consumption has not been reached. However, it is recommended in the US market to change the engine oil at least once a year. More details concerning the low mileage annual oil service may be found in SI B00 04 01. The CBS intervals for other maintenance parts, such as the microfilter and spark plugs, are now linked directly to a multiple of the oil service. For this reason, it is important that the oil service counter be set to indicate the correct service currently being forecast. The SBT 000104070 (Condition Based Service), SBT 000406148 (Modifications to Condition Based Service, and SBT 000206146 (CBS - E70/71) all contain additional information on Condition Based Service strategy and functionality. WARRANTY Information only personal cam am vazut ca la E46 zice 20 sau 25.000km la revizie m-a bufnit rasul.

intervalul e de 25.000km sau chiar 30.000 si doi ani, ceea ce in cazul nostru este enorm,mai ales daca masina e folosita urban. de citit http://www.intalnirea BMW-urilor.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271102 din pacate softul folosit si in functie de care se scat km este o tampenie.am pus undeva un post unde am comparat algoritmul de pe E46 vs cel de pe E30 si cel de pe E30 era castigator.din nou ar mai fi discutia reviziilor facute la reprezentanta ,am auzit adevarate povesti de groaza cu ulei.filtre neschimbate sau schimbat doar un filtru. personal schimb uleiul 1an/10-12.000 km am avut perioade cand schimbam dupa 1an/7000 km si diferenta fata de 1an/10.000 km este evidenta.una peste alta se aduna si distributia proiectata aiurea si uleiul de calitate mai slaba si intervalele lungi de schimb.

daca ai dat jos senzorul ala nu e bine.e imposibil sa nu ai erori pe tester..

corect,la E46 era ceva de genul pentru obtinerea performanelor maxime sau o exprimare pe acolo.. scrie prin manual daca nu ma insel.

teoretic poti face km aia doar ca taxi.si masina sa mearga non stop.asa la un calcul masina aia ar fi trebui sa mearga 490 km pe zi .destul de greu as zice.edit:calculul e facut presupunand ca masina aia merge 7 zile din 7 ... edit:totusi cred ca ,colegul a inversat o cifra ceva poate erau "Masina avea 265 000 km in 2006 luna a 8a,cred ca a luato de la 0 km la el" 2008 luna 6-a?

La motor faci ceva?

destul de urat,cred ca trebuie sa deconectezi cate ceva pe rand pana vezi exact care e consumatorul.

verificat cu INPA 13,7 13,8 in relanti in ture ramane tot acolo pornit tot ce se putea porni sta 13,2 13,3 13,4 din nou in ture nici o schimbare. DSC-ul imi da erori5DC0 and 5DC3 senzor abs dreapta spate,nici un an nu are de cand l-am schimbat.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?q=34116855153&series=E46

frumos,arata bine graficul,doar soft nicio alta modificare?cand ziceai ca vinzi masina?

nu cred ca ai PVC pe N43,doar pe N42,banuiesc ca rolul PCV a fost preluat de EGR.

pretul prea mare probabil,anuntul e ok din punctul meu de vedere,la pret nu ma pronunt.

la fel 13,6 13,9 in functie de consumatori asta in relanti,in ture nu am mai verificat. edit: de pe E46 fanatics Universally figures for 12 Volts systems are as follows. Fully charged 12 Volt Lead Acid battery - 2.1 Volts per cell for a total of 12.6 Volts. If the battery surface Voltage drops to 12.0 Volts then the battery is effectively fully discharged. As for charging Voltage, typically 13.5-14.5 Volts is the nominal charging Voltage loaded or unloaded on most cars and trucks. There are a few cars and trucks that do not run the alternator full time so you will see 12.6-12.8 Volts at times on some of these vehicles and this could be considered as normal. The E46 however does not shut the alternator off, so you should expect to see 13.5-14.5 Volts when the engine is running. Anything above 15 Volts would be considered not normal and somewhere around 17-18 Volts most cars and trucks will shut the engine control computer down to protect the modules and circuits in the vehicle. deci sunt inca in parametri se pare.mai studiez in weekend sa vad in mers ce valori am.

vezi sa nu traga aer fals pe undeva.

ok,mersi am schimbat bateria si il tin sub observatie,probabil ca anul asta schimb si eu releul,mai am pe undeva pusa valva PCV si toate furtunele,aia si garnitura de la corpul filtru ulei cred ca mai sunt pe lista.Sper sa mai prind si ceva bascule Meyle la pret bomba

hmm fara consumatori nu sare de 14 din ce tin eu minte.verific dupa ce montez bateria ce voltaj am si apoi dupa inca o saptamana daca voltajul scade e clar ma paste si pe mine un releu.cat a fost releul?teoretic sub 13 ar trebui sa fie probleme. edit: util www.intalnirea BMW-urilor.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5747151 mda siteul e b i m m e r f e s t tot merge mizeria asta de restrictie

360 370 lei,dar cum ziceam mai am o Varta pe acasa,aparent in stare buna,nu a mai fost in stare sa porneasca un TDI dar pentru benzina cred ca e ok.ma rog conform celor de la garantie bateria era buna. rectific vad ca e si cu 300 lei baterie

nope nada nu vad diferente na csenon edit:totusi sambata cand am mai facut diagnoza am avut ceva erori dubioase care prea apar decat daca dai la automat cu bateria descarcata,le-am ignorat crezand ca vin de cand a stat masina la vopsit . Vad diseara ce si cum. dublu edit: de fapt saracia asta se supara, cum vreau sa vad alte cazane hop mai imi da cate o problema din asta,crede ca vreau sa il vand

cati km ai de cand ai schimbat uleiul ?cum au zis si colegii mergi mai sportiv si vezi ce se intampla.oricum cred ca limita de la care iti faci probleme e mult mai sus.

Pe aia as merge si eu,mai am una pe acasa o pun pe cazan diseara sa vad ce zice dupa aia,daca nu alternator direct,singura mea problema e ca daca e alternatorul imi e sa nu prajeasca DSC-ul sau altceva pe acolo.

ieri si azi mi-a facut 2 figuri interesante: -pornesc masina si zbang pomul de craciun - zic ok senzor abs probabil,ciudat ca a aparut fix la pornire merg cativa km opres motorul il pornesc si problema dispare -azi dimineata identic dupa 2 sec dupa ce pornesc motorul se aprind toate,bun iau diagnoza si am asa ABS Module Error Code: 5DF7 (24055) Vehicle power >18V si ince ceva cu senzorul dreapta spate electrical problem sau o balarie de genul sterg erorile si fara probleme. Acum bateria e in moarte clinica 11,5 V conform PA Soft,alternatorul sta 13,5-13,7 conform aceluiasi PA Soft. Ce sa fie regulatorul de tensiune sau bateria?

termostatul deschide in functie de comanda DME la M54,cat timp nu ai erori in bord si motorul nu se supraincalzeste nu ar trebui sa fie probleme.cel mai sigur mai cauta pe cineva cu o masina ca a ta si compara.Legat de temp apei vezi ca acul la jumĂŁtate e relativ inseamna ca apa e undeva in zona 70-100 grade,verificat de mine cu diagnoza pe bord apa era ajunsa la jumĂŁtate iar diagnoza imi dadea 70 grade.in general la mine cu termostat/radiator/pompa apa noi apa ajunge la 70 grade dupa aprox 7 min si 3 km mersi la o temperatura ext de 10 grade

el are M52, M54 e bantuit de problema asta.aparent la unii se rezolva cu resoftare la altii nu.Primul minut si la mine merge "tremurat" apoi isi revine.singurul "remediu" gasit a fost cand am sters accidental adaption values.vanos-ul nu cred ca are treaba,unii mai dadeau vina pe DME.

nu ,dar deconecteaza mufa si vezi ce se intampla.

cum ai ajuns la concluzia asta ? mai sus scrie iulie 148.000 km dar la 180.000 km cum ai ajuns?