sskkaa

Da, asa este, sunt frane M Performance. Pot sa spun doar ca placutele fata au imediat aproape 120k km de la schimb. Iar discurile sunt inca cele originale

Salut @laurt Placutele fata au fost in Mai 2023 - 1662 lei + TVA ( cu reducere 20% ) la BMW Oradea, senzor parca 128 lei + TVA ( total cu manopera si material marunt aprox 2400 lei ) Placutele spate au fost in Aprilie 2024 - 672 lei + TVA ( cu reducere 20% ) tot la BMW Oradea, si 133 lei + TVA senzorul ( total cu manopera si material marunt aprox 1050 lei )

N are rost o analiza, pentru ca suntem clar condusi de niste incompetenti analfabeti functionali ( cu exceptiile de rigoare, putine care sunt ).

Pai cand bagi miliarde, astepti sa primesti ceva la schimb nu? Iti spun 100% ca finala a fost destul de stransa intre zona Oradea si Debrecen la amplasarea fabricii, dar neajunsurile vremurilor, au inclinat balanta catre Unguri. Bolojan a tras cat a putut atunci, dar unele lucruri se discutau si la Bucuresti... n-are rost sa intram in detalii ca stim toti cum se invarte roata

Plimba te putin si prin zonele mai rurale si o sa vezi cum arata casele si curtile lor, ingrijite, cochete, curatenie, etc... dupaia da o tura prin satele noastre... pe langa ca ungurii sunt mai muncitori sunt si mult mai responsabili. Ma refer la omul de rand, normal, muncitor. Sunt mai saraci, dar asta nu ii face sa stea toata ziua ca la noi prin birturi si cand ai nevoie de vreunu sa te ajute o zi la lucru sau ceva, prefera sa stea pe ajutor de somaj sa bea la bar decat sa puna osu la bataie. Te asigur ca sunt mult peste noi la multe detalii de normalitate. Ca n-or fi ei in top management, sau prin corporatii nu stiu, eu ma refeream la omul muncitor, si mind setul lor. Lasa ca nici cu preturile din multe locuri infecte din Romania nu ne putem lauda, gen aberatii de Poiana Brasov sau Mamaia, sau altele. Nu e cazul sa ne dam superiori, ca ne o luam in frezi la multe capitole.

Dl de la BMW mananca ceva c@c@t, dar pe alocuri are si dreptate. 2 ore n-am stat in vama de nu stiu cati ani, maxim daca au fost 30min, poate 45 daca am nimerit un schimb de tura, sau sarbatori, sau ceva ce sa incarce traficul. Totodata, acum dupa ce au legat autostrada M35 de la Debrecen cu "ciotul" de A3 + Dex16 spre Oradea+Centura, deja conducerea Fabricii BMW din DEBRECEN, face demersuri politice la nivel inalt ca tot personalul lor ce va zbura la Muchen+retur, sa o faca de pe Aeroportul Oradea si nu de la Debrecen, pentru ca acum au acces direct fara vama, au autostrada si pe Oradea aterizeaza LUFTHANSA... unde mai mult ca sigur ca isi vor negocia tarife+security check separat/privat. Dar cum la conducerea Romaniei au fost doar incompetenti, iar de 20 de ani ne chinuim sa facem o autostrada ORADEA - CLUJ, si din ziua de azi va mai dura MINIM 6-7 ANI sa o finalizeze, in conditii ideale de lucru, birocratie si alte detalii, la ce sa ne asteptam? Normal ca nu va investi nimeni zeci/sute de miliarde in fabrici cand infrastructura ta e praf, si tot ce vine/pleaca trebuie sa mearga pe drumuri nationale sau judetene pline de carute si vaci. Apropo de asta, acum fiind in plan si in lucru si reabilitatea caii ferate CLUJ-ORADEA-UNGARIA, se zvoneste ca banii se vor taia, si nu prea stie ce se va intampla cu proiectul, lucrarile fiind pe la 40-45% finalizate... Totusi NOKIAN a planificat detaliile astea si totusi au putut investi vreo 600mil EUR in noua fabrica la Oradea. DAR cea mai mare problema aici la noi, in Romania, este forta de munca, nu COSTUL, si LIPSA EI, mai ales a celor cu o pregatire suplimentara fata de MUNCITOR NECALIFICAT. Ungurii sigur sunt mai responsabili si dornici de munca!

Desi km sunt destui, inca merge brici si poate consuma si putin (rare ori ce i drept ). Oricum media generala la pompa de cand am masina e 8.2, ceea ce mi se pare foarte ok avand in vedere 2tone, 380+ cp si 800+ nm. As fi zis ca sunt povesti chestiile astea referitoare la eficienta unu B57 6cil 3.0... Totodata, dupa dpf nou (ma rog, oarecum... ca are deja vreo 20k km ) , am vazut si prima data regenerare la 700+km... nu credeam ca se poate... in general, regenerarile si le face cam pe la 300km, ca ceasu. B57 oricum regenereaza mult mai des decat generatiile mai vechi de motoare.

Range de 500km poate pe hartie de la 100% la 0%... in conditii ideale, si mers cu 60-70kmh... in realitate cam toate au range REAL pe la 300, poate 350km.

In ultimele luni am tot alternat plin pe plin cu OMV MM si Rompetrol EfixS. Dupa mai bine de 20k km, pot spune clar ca media consumului e mai mica cu 0,5-0,7L% cu motorina EfixS de la Rompetrol. Pur si simplu consuma mai putin. Traseele au fost in mare parte identice, zilnic cam aceeasi rutina, consum calculat la pompa, nu dupa CB.

https://fitcamx.com/collections/bmw Eu am luat una dedicata, ca integrare in oglinda. Inca n-am montat-o. Parerile de la posesori sunt foarte pozitive. Am preferat ceva de genul chiar daca pretul e mai maricel, dar am preferat sa nu am alte cabluri prin bord. Imi ajunge ala de la detector :))))

Fa intai un update de soft la cutie la BMW ( daca este o versiune mai noua cumva pentru masina ta/seria de sasiu ) schimba uleiul in cutie si eventual uleiul in cutia de transfer ( daca n-au fost schimbate cumva, desi n-as crede ) si vezi dupaia... asta sunt oricum operatiuni care ar fi trebuit deja facute la km astia...

Deci Hyndai si Kia pt muritorii de rand, ca preturile la Audi si Porsche... Majoritatea statiilor sunt probabil 250-350... pana la 800 e drum lung Cate duc 800 din toate alea?

Cate masini se vand acum in RO/Europa cu arhitectura de 800V? Si cate statii de 800V sunt?

Eu la peste 170k km ce sa mai zic?

În plus, șoferii evită ca bateria să scadă sub 10% și rareori încarcă peste 80%, din cauza timpului mult mai mare necesar în această plajă. Astfel, doar câteva modele reușesc să depășească 300 km reali între două opriri. Foarte trist...

Nu ti spun. Eu cred ca mai trag de M40d mult si bine

Common issues for the B58 Gen 3 engine include potential problems with the rocker arms and valve springs, possibly related to the cylinder deactivation system, which can cause damage to the valves and exhaust cam. Other early reliability concerns reported by mechanics include a bad batch of parts for a specific production range, and the possibility of the issues being more widespread but less documented, rather than a widespread problem. Potential Gen 3 B58 Problems: Cylinder Deactivation System: Some reports suggest issues with the cylinder deactivation system (used for efficiency), which could lead to damaged rocker arms, valve springs popping out of place, and scratched exhaust cams. Valve Springs: Valve springs on some units have been observed to pop out of position or break, preventing valves from opening and closing properly. Damaged Exhaust Camshaft: The exhaust cam can also become damaged or scratched in conjunction with valve spring issues. Context and Severity: Early Reports: These issues are being reported as early reliability concerns by mechanics, but the widespread nature of the problems is still being assessed. Specific Production Runs: Some of the issues may stem from a bad batch of parts from a specific production range. Root Cause: The issues with the valve springs and rockers might be linked to the efficiency-focused cylinder deactivation system in the Gen 3 B58. What to Do: Stay Informed: Keep an eye on forums and owner discussions to monitor the prevalence and details of these issues. Vehicle Service: If you encounter any performance issues or a rough idle, have a qualified BMW technician inspect the engine. Check for Recalls: Be aware of any voluntary recalls related to your vehicle's production date and have any affected parts addressed.

Common problems with the B58TU2 engine include oil leaks from the oil filter housing or valve cover, coolant loss potentially due to minor leaks or head gasket issues, and issues with VANOS solenoids affecting engine timing. The disintegration of lower-quality oil filters can also cause blockages and leaks. Oil Leaks Causes: Leaks can stem from the oil filter housing, valve cover gasket, or the cylinder head gasket. Symptoms: You might notice a burning oil smell in the cabin, smoke from the engine, or oil on the spark plugs. Resolution: Regular maintenance and prompt replacement of seals and gaskets are key to preventing and addressing these leaks. Coolant Loss Causes: Minor coolant loss might be due to faulty seals, a loose coolant tank cap, or a failing water pump. More serious issues can include cracked coolant hoses, a damaged radiator, or even a blown head gasket. Symptoms: Low coolant levels in the main or secondary tanks. Resolution: Check for obvious damage to hoses or the radiator. Ensure the coolant tank cap is secure and the cooling system is properly sealed. If the loss is severe, a professional diagnosis is needed. Oil Filter Disintegration Causes: Using low-quality oil filters or not replacing them as frequently as recommended can lead to them disintegrating inside the engine. Symptoms: When a filter disintegrates, small pieces can cause blockages and leaks in the engine system. Resolution: Always use high-quality OEM or reputable aftermarket oil filters and ensure they are replaced according to the maintenance schedule. VANOS Solenoid Issues Causes: Infrequent oil changes can lead to buildup in the solenoid, which controls the engine's variable valve timing. Symptoms: Problems with the timing system's solenoid can manifest as reduced engine performance or rough idling. Resolution: Regular oil changes and prompt cleaning or replacement of the solenoid can help prevent these issues.

Common B58 engine problems include oil and coolant leaks from degraded gaskets (valve cover, oil filter housing, intercooler), high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) failure, and issues with PCV systems and VANOS solenoids. While the B58 is considered a reliable engine, these issues can lead to check engine lights, engine misfires, and loss of power if not addressed promptly. Oil & Coolant Leaks Leaking Gaskets: Degraded valve cover and oil filter housing gaskets can cause visible oil leaks and increased oil consumption, according to Engine Finder. Intercooler Leaks: The engine's intercooler, which is water-cooled, can also develop leaks from its seals, leading to coolant loss. Overheating & Head Gasket Failure: Persistent coolant loss from any source can cause the engine to overheat, which can lead to severe engine damage, including a potential head gasket failure. Fuel System Issues High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) Failure: The high-pressure fuel pump is a known failure point, causing stumbling, loss of power, and engine misfires. Other Common Issues VANOS Solenoid Failure: Malfunctioning VANOS solenoids can contribute to engine performance issues. PCV System Issues: The crankcase ventilation (PCV) system, which includes the PCV valve and diaphragm, can fail, leading to rough idling and smoke. Charge Pipe Issues: The intercooler charge pipe can crack, which also leads to overheating and potential engine damage. Symptoms to Watch For Low Coolant or Oil Lights: These dashboard warnings indicate a loss of fluid that needs immediate attention. White Smoke from Exhaust: This can be a sign of burning coolant due to a head gasket issue. Engine Misfires or Stumbling: A sign of insufficient fuel delivery from a faulty HPFP or other issues, notes Bavarian Auto Werke. Burning Oil Smell: Often indicates a leaking valve cover gasket or a leak into the spark plug wells.

ce sa bipaie? sa claxoneze sau cum?

Pune altfel poza ca nu se vede...

Asta mi se pare cel mai nasol aspect la PHEV, ca merge doar electric, si termicul intra doar cand e nevoie, si atunci intra direct la 3-4000rpm, el fiind rece, si cu o ungere precara... cel putin in alea cateva secunde pana ajunge uleiul peste tot... cred ca de aia si trec astia la 0W20 sau uleiul mega subtiri la rece, pentru a unge cat mai repede toate componentele motorului. In functie de stilul de mers, un motor PHEV ( 30e, sau 45e ) la 80-100k, poate avea o uzura interna a motorului termic mult mai mare, avand in vedere majoritatea pornirilor la instante la rece.

N are cum sa incalzeasca motorul daca nu e pornit In consecinta, la PHEV, daca mergi electric si dai talpa, motorul pe benzina va porni la temperatura exterioara, cu totul rece in el.